Stain Removal Tricks and Tips

People throw out all sorts of items just because they're stained.  This is enormously wasteful, particularly when a few stain-removal tricks can clean up the item completely.  When you spill, no matter the fabric or the stain, immediately blot up as much as you can with a paper towel or light-colored rag.  This often removes enough of the stain that laundering can remove the rest.

The reason that many stains are labeled "stubborn" is because people aren't using the proper chemical to fight the stain.  For example, all the protein-based stain removers in the world won't be helpful on the oil stain on your favorite pants; nore will all the oil solvents in the world help a milk stain.  The stain fighting rules are the same for any stain:  immediately run the stain under cool water before it has set.

The Four Main Stain Fighters:

From now on, there are three main categories of stains: "inky," "protein," and "oily."  The category of stain dictates the stain treatment.  You should keep a small supply of each of these in your bathroom.

Glycerine.  Glycerine is ideal for "inky" stains, such as pen stains, dark wine stains, or fruit juice stains.  Let the glycerine sit on the stain before using your super-secret weapon, liquid dish detergent, which is made to remove food dyes.

Detergents.  These are the laundry detergents, officially called enzyme detergents, that you find in the laundry aisle - Wisk, Tide, et cetera.  They work best on protein-based stains, such as milk or blood.  Protein stains are anything that comes from a person or animal, including sweat, feces, blood, and milk. (Yum.)  For a bad stain, first run the stain under cold water, before applying detergent directly onto the damp stain, and letting it sit for twenty (20) minutes.

Oil Removers.  Oil removers, officially called oil solvents ("solvent" = dissolver), remove "oily" stains such as lotion, butter, or accidental sprays of cooking grease.  Oil removers should be applied to the stain and left to sit for at least fifteen (15) minutes.  The big name brand is Carbona.

Combination Solvents.  A number of stain removal sticks and sprays have begun to include both enzyme and oil removers.  Name brands include Shout and Stain Stick.

Other Stain Fighters:

Vinegar.  A 1:1 mix of white vinegar and water is ideal for loosening dyes from fabrics, particularly nonwashable materials such as your couch upholstery.  First soak the stain in vinegar and water, and then apply the appropriate oil solvent or detergent.  Vinegar is also an excellent odor remover for everything from the exercise shirt that you really want to continue using to your carpet, which can handle a 1:5 vinegar-to-water rinse.  The vinegar odor disappears surprisingly quickly.

Bleach.  Bleach will get rid of most stains, with the caveat that it will turn the stain and the surrounding area bright white.  Bleach essentially eats right through both stains and the fabrics below, so the idea is to use 1:6 part mixture on a stain just until the stain disappears, and then thoroughly rinse off any remaining bleach.

Confusing Stains:

The stains that you're probably not quite sure how to classify:

Coffee and tea.  Immediately run cold water over the stain, then use a combination solvent.  Wash normally.

Gum:  Hold an ice cube onto the gum and crack off what you can.  The remaining stain is an oil stain, so use an oil solvent.

Urine.  This will begin coming up around child-bearing age.  Soak in a 1:1 mix of vinegar and water.  Then wash with detergent.

Mustard, grass, finger paint  and cola.  All will leave behind a dye stain on your white shirt.  First soak in a 1:1 mix of vinegar and water, then use the secret weapon, liquid dish detergent.

Antiperspirant, deodorant, makup, chocolate, candles, crayon, and tomato sauce.  When in doubt, you're probably dealing with a protein/oil mix and need to use a combination solvent.